Ommayed Mosque & Souq Hammadiyah

When many people think of Damascus (especially Moslems and secular Westerners), the Ommayed (or Ummayad) Mosque is the first thing that comes to mind. For Moslems, it is the third most important mosque in the world, following Mecca and the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem (al-Aqsa). It was built after the Moslem Conquest of the Levant in the 7th century. One of the pillars that frames the opening of the adjacent Souq Hamidiyya (see photo) is a remnant of the Roman Temple to Jupiter, which itself encompassed a larger area. At the time of the Conquest, the Church of John the Baptist occupied this area. The Christians were at first allowed to keep this church, but eventually the Caliph al-Walid (c. 705-715) confiscated it, offering to return a few of the smaller churches that had earlier been taken. High up on the outer wall on the southern end one can still see a Greek inscription.

It states,” Thy Kingdom, O Christ, is an everlasting Kingdom, and Thy dominion endureth throughout all generations.” [Adaptation of Psalm 145: 13 (Septuagint). Photo.]

The building truly is enormous and beautiful. In the inner courtyard, one is witness to beautiful mosaics featuring bright gold work, in particular [photo]. As the Moslem Arabs did not really have such artisans amongst themselves, they employed Byzantine and local Syrian craftsmen – hence the Byzantine style. One notices this, too, in Turkey, where every mosque seems to have been modeled on the Hagia Sophia (Church of the Holy Wisdom). It is said that the Caliph spent seven years worth of his empire’s revenues on this conversion process (from church to mosque). Inside the mosque proper is located the Shrine of the Head of John the Baptist. His relics are enclosed behind an interesting, green-tinted structure [photo].

At the southeastern corner of the mosque is what is called the "Jesus mineret" (one of four). Muslims say that Jesus (whose divinity they deny and thus maintain that He is but a man, the second greatest prophet after Mohammad) will return to this mineret when He comes to judge the world. I think it interesting that He is held as being second to mohammad yet He will be the Judge of the humanity.

One thing that struck me the most upon entering the Ommayed Mosque (and non-Moslems enter at a separate entrance) was the diversity of those present. Travelers from across the Middle East in a dozen (or more) different styles of distinctive dress are noticeable, but so are those from across the West and the Far East. I understand that the Shrine is a place of especial devotion for the Shi’a Moslems (a la Iran), and, indeed, I noticed many turbaned mullahs centered amongst their groups of pilgrims. I know not what they said, but it was not uncommon for men to be crying. For women who did not have a hijab (covering), Jedi-like robes were provided (for a price, of course) – as well for men in shorts.

As an aside about clothing, I thought I read before coming that shorts and sandals were taboo, and long-sleeved shirts were preferred. While it is true that shorts are rare, they are present, and if they come to the knees, no one seems to care much (not that I personally wear them outside of the house). Half the people wear sandals, however, and t-shirts and short-sleeved button-ups are as common as long-sleeves. Jeans are also extremely common, and men tuck in their shirts or do not. Very few men wear sports-coats or suits; at least in the summertime, it is simply much too hot. Hairstyles also run the gamut, from very short to lengthy and gelled. As for women, it is true that the hijab is very common amongst the women, but in all parts where I have traveled there are always plenty who do not. In Damascus, many like to wear the calf-length slacks or jeans, and t-shirts are just fine. In sum, Syria is generally a very tolerant place and clothing and styles within reason are just fine. On the other hand, perhaps it is simply too hot to bother!

Moving back to my main subject, just outside the Ommayed Mosque is the Tomb of Saladin, aka Salah-ad-din, the great Kurdish ruler of the Moslems and the contemporary and sometimes opponent of King Richard the Lionheart (both featured in numerous 19th century romances). Although easily the most famous of medieval Moslem rulers, his tomb is rather quaint. There are two tombs inside, one of wood (original or late Ottoman?), and the other donated by Kaiser Wilhelm in the 1880s. This same Kaiser entered Damascus dressed as an Arab – having just come from Jerusalem, where he entered as a humble knight of the Crusades (and initiated the construction of a large and lovely Lutheran church)!
As for the Hamidyya Souq, it is one of the best in the Arab world (though I hear the one in Aleppo is magnificent). It is always packed. Apparently, a few years ago it was revamped, with much of the excess removed and the souq was restored to its 19th century glory. To be sure, the entire area springing on all sides from the Ommayed Mosque area is a souq of sorts, with shops carrying nearly everything. The Hamidiyya Souq, however, is covered and seems to go on for every (at least a kilometer or more). And it is always packed full of people, bicycles, and even the occasional horse or car (though these are usually confined to the later hours). Of particular fame is a certain ice cream shop (always packed, at 9am or 9pm) that features a very doughy-type ice cream dipped in pistachios – scrumptious!