Suweida, Shahba, & Qanawat

Last Saturday, I, along with an Australian and a Canadian (thanks, James, for planning it), traveled via minibus (30SY lira, or about 60 cents) a good hour or so south of Damascus to the city of Suweida, and the outlying towns of Shahba and Qanawat. These sites are all on the way to Bosra, in the Hauran, not far from Jordan. The population is mostly Druze, a rather secretive religious group, drawing its traditions from both Islam and Christianity; they are, unsurprisingly, viewed as heterodox by Sunni Moslems. It is said that the full tenents of the Druze faith are not revealed to its members until they are aged 40 (perhaps not unlike LDS). The women are treated relatively equal to the men, as I understand it, and generally not veiled. They are found in significant numbers in Lebanon, Israel, and Syria. This region of the Hauran, however, was mostly devoid of any populace until the Druze immigrated from Lebanon (the Jebel Druze) in the 19^th century.

We first went to Shahba (above), a small and very pleasant town, important in history really only as the birthplace of the Roman Emperor, Philip the Arab (232-237AD). His predecessor, had died, interestingly enough, in battle outside of Baghdad. Upon becoming emperor, he renamed his hometown Philippopolis and bestowed funds for a significant building campaign. As such, this town – unlike any other town in the Hauran sans Bosra – yet maintains its original Roman grid pattern. Indeed, the main bazaar street is the same paved Roman road, and many of the merchant stalls were used as such in Roman days, likely selling the same produce and wares. There are several ruins to be seen, including a theatre (much smaller than in Bosra), a temple, and baths, all of black basalt. The best reason to visit Shahba, however, is for the museum of mosaics. These are all situated in situ and are most impressive. Unfortunately, like every other museum in Syria, photographs are not allowed, but above are a few postcard shots.

We caught a bus to Suweida (about 15 minutes, for about 20 cents), where we were to have lunch. Unfortunately, Suweida is a rather unattractive industrial town with little to interest the historically-minded traveler. Its Nabatean and Roman remains were utilized by Turkish troops to build barracks around 1900. The main attraction is the museum, with significant sculptures and mosaics (many from Shahba); all captions are in French and Arabic. I would be remiss in pointing out the money that Tim & I saved with our student cards: whereas James paid SY150 (US$3), we only had to pay SY10 (20 cents). That is certainly a good feeling!

From the museum, we caught a taxi to Qanawat. In cooler times, it would be a healthy 45 minute walk, but it was simply too hot. Whereas the museums were the main attractions in the other towns, Qanawat actually featured a significant church complex (an adapted Roman basilica), as well as more minor Roman temple remains. This city was part of the Decapolis federation of cities in Hellenistic and Roman times. The Nabateans moved their capital here from Petra in the first century BC. They crushed the forces of Herod the Great in battle when he attempted to annex the city; he, interestingly, was under pressure from Antony, who wished to restore the region to Cleopatra.

More than the sites visited on this daytrip, however, were the friendly and generous people whom we came in contact. Indeed, this hospitable spirit is one of the key attractions of Syria, the more notable as it has largely been lost to the over-touristy Egypt or Morocco. Damascus is a large city of 7-8 million souls, and a large city is the same anywhere to some regard. But outside, people are especially friendly. While children, especially, would come up to us in Shahba and say hello (indeed, our limited Arabic was wasted, as everyone wanted to speak to us in English!), in Qanawat we actually had a young boy approach us with a pot of thick, cardoman-laced Arabic coffee, offering us each a sip, then scampering away with nary a word. We also had a good “conversation” (in mixed English/Arabic) with a Druze shaykh at the church ruins. In Suweida we met a fellow named “Fahddi” whom we asked regarding a good restaurant. He took us inside, ordered for us, ensured we were not cheated (as foreigners; but the prices were posted), and visited with us for an hour. He was majoring in English literature at the university, but also worked as a marble craftsman. Though he was full of humour and general good-naturedness, yet was there an underlying sense of despair and melancholy. He noted with chagrin that despite his hard work and very long hours, he could never get anywhere; that is, his hard work was not rewarded. Indeed, he suggested that he could work all day and only earn enough for lunch! And for this reason, he was hoping to work abroad, in Dubai, or perhaps the US, UK, or Australia. There, he felt, in lands of opportunity, his effort and hard work would be rewarded. ­­

Overall, this was another worthy trip. I feel like I have seen the region south of Damascus, and can now turn my sights on the rest of the country.


[In Suweida, the late Basil al-Asad stands guard. He was the heir-apparent, but was killed in a car crash in the 1990s, leading to Bashar's recall from optometry training in London.]

Bosra -- Ancient Nabatean/Roman City

On Saturday, I traveled with a new Canadian friend (whom I met at the Sultan Hotel on my final day there) to Bosra, a city of great import during the Nabatean and Roman periods (c. 2nd century BC to as long as the 7th century AD). The Nabateans moved their capital here from Petra in the 1st century before Christ, while Trajan conquered it in about 106AD (I think); it was a major garrison town thereafter, guarding against first the Parthians and then the Sassanids (Persians). According to one legend, Mohammad supposedly traveled to Bosra on caravan and heard about Christianity by a Nestorian (Assyrian Church of the East) monk.
The very comfortable ride was about two hours and cost me about $1 (each way). The day was overall really rather pleasant, breezy and not overly hot. In the first photo, you will hopefully be able to see a motorcycle riding through the Western Gate (Roman arch). What makes Bosra so unique (if not rather weird) is that the locals live amongst the ruins. Their stone houses (not of the best of modern architecture) are such as could have been built their a hundred or five hundred years ago -- except for the omnipresent satellite dishes (only allowed, I have heard, since about 2000). So it is a bit odd walking amongst the ruins and walking by people going about their daily lives. There were really only a few tourists around -- dare I say twenty?
















What everyone goes to Bosra to see is the Roman Theatre. Like almost everything else in the city, it is built of basalt. It could seat 15,000 people. Note that it was a theatre for the fine arts, not for gladiator sports (viewed at the amphitheatre). It is so well preserved because the local Moslem rulers in the 13th century (name escapes me at the moment; I think not the Mamelukes) fortified it and built a citadel around it. Thus one enters unsuspectingly from the outside and only upon entering the interior via a number of tunnels does one come upon this fine specimen of a traditional Roman theatre -- the largest in the East.















I was unable to upload a photo of the Church of Ss Sergius and Bacchus, dating from the 6th century. It was still intact a century ago, but in the meantime it has been stripped so that there is really not much to see anyway. There is but one recognizable fresco -- of the Virgin Theotokos -- as well as a very faded one of the church's patrons, Ss Sergius and Bachus (two soldier-martyrs).
Bosra is a must for any visitor to Syria, but, from what I hear, perhaps not as exotic as, say, Palmyra. But as a relaxed day trip from Damascus, it is well worth the effort.

Minibuses Around Damascus

I live in the Old City (specifically, Bab Touma, the traditionally Christian Quarter of Old Damascus), but my classes are a good 15-20 minutes away by taxi (down the Autostraad, a converted military airplane runway -- very straight!). A one way taxi fare costs around 75 Syrian pounds (aka lira), so about SY150 both ways. This equals out to about US$3, which I know is not much in the greater scheme of things; it does, however, add up after five days every week. The alternative is the great public transportation system in Damascus: namely, buses and minibuses. Both cost SY5 (US 10 cents), which is actually round-trip for the buses. The minibuses (or service) are prolific and omnipresent. The trick is in finding the right one. There are a few places where they are temporarily stationary, but, for the most part, one waves them down on the street. Knowing how to read -- or at least recognize the Arabic "picture" -- is a must. Here is a photo of the Baramke local bus/service depot. Nearby is one of three national "Pullman" bus depots, going everywhere on the cheap. For example, I traveled the two hours to Bosra (ancient Roman city) for SY50 -- about US$1!

Welcome to Syria!

I arrived in Damascus at the end of May 2007. My first greeting from the aiport was to see every car and truck with a poster (or three) of President Bashar al-Asad on the front, side, top, or rear of the vehicle. There were also billboards and numerous other posters. Only belatedly did I realize that the referendum for a new term in office was upcoming. I particularly like this billboard: it is very uplifting. Perhaps the USA should encourage positive messages like this one.

May I say that it is truly difficult to understand the friendliness and gentle, tolerant culture of Syria (at least Damascus) from what we hear from US sources -- which are, naturally, concerned with foreign policy and not internal dynamics so much. One must admit that President Assad has no easy task to keep his country stable in the extremely turbulant Middle East (just look at nearly every bordering country). But I really do like it here (aside from the heat...although it is "only Spring" yet, so I am reminded...). The worth of the American dollar has dropped significantly against the British pound and the Euro and it is thus extremely expensive to travel or live there. In Syria, on the other hand, the dollar is still worth a good amount. Thus, I can buy a chicken shwarma (like a wrapped gyro) and a drink for a little over a dollar. Taxis usually cost anywhere from less than a dollar to $2 -- which one finds expensive after a while, what in comparison to the buses and minibuses (which are prolific) at about ten cents a ride.

Unlike what I hear about places in the Middle East like Egypt (Cairo at least) and Morocco, Syria is unspoilt by an overwhelming foreign and tourist culture, retaining that sense of Arab hospitality and generosity. Damascus is a city of about seven million (including a million Iraqi refugees from the war), but still very accessible. I highly recommend it to the American or other in search of a place of exploration. I commend the local culture, by all means, but one can obtain nearly anything one wants if you but know where to look (such as more expensive supermarkets catering to the expat community in the suburbs).

The Christian community here is the most secure and safe in the Middle East -- as evidenced by the fact that half of the Christians in Iraq have fled here for safety. The Christians groups include Greek Orthodox (aka Rum Orthodox), Greek Catholic (aka Greek Melkite), Latin rite Catholic, Suriyani (aka Syrian Orthodox or "Jacobite"), Syrian Catholic, Apostolic Armenian, and, doubtless, others which I am missing at the moment. The Rum Orthodox have been very friendly and helpful to me, and I am deeply appreciative. In addition, the historical sites are everywhere: from ancient Ugaritic to Greek and Roman to Byzantine and Crusader and many others (such as Ommayed, Ottoman, and French Mandate). I intend to visit as many as possible, beginning with Bosra tomorrow.

And let us not forget the biblical events that occurred in Damascus: most notably the conversion of the Apostle Paul and his healing by St Annanias (Hannaniah). There is a church here dedicated to Annanias where, I think, he was supposed to have lived. There is another one -- St Paul's -- where the Apostle was lowered over the wall in a basket (as in the Book of Acts).